The MGA With An Attitude
MGA Guru Is GOING MOBILE - July 1, 2014
MGA Wheel Bearing Replacement, in Maine
First order of business today is to change the worn wheel bearing. A road side rest stop and an hour of dirty fingers gets the job done.
Jack up, remove wheel, brake drum and brake shoes. Remove grease cap, split pin, castellated nut (with left hand threads), and heavy flat washer. A bit of prying with the lug wrench (tire iron) extracts the hub with bearings, and the grease seal and seal ring come with it. Set the seal ring aside, and the seal is easy to extract from the hub.
Use a wrench socket and extension and handy hammer (12-inch Crescent wrench) to punch out the outer bearing and bearing spacer.
Flip the extension around and use it to tap out the inboard bearing. A little wiggle test shows the excess clearance in the bearings. They were not about to fall apart, but the odd tire wear was enough to prompt me to change the bearings.
A little petrol siphoned from the MG is good for cleaning the hub. Then a little fun packing bearing grease completely through the new outboard bearing.
More grease for the larger inboard bearing, and also a bit of grease in the hub between the bearings just for good measure.
Tappa-tappa. The next three photos are cute when played in quick succession.
Install the seal and the seal ring (with bevel on the exposed end).
Install the inner race spacer and the outer bearing.
Install the hub, tap it home, and install the heavy flat washer and castellated nut (left hand thread on left side).
Tighten nut (left handed) to about 75-lb-ft torque. Then tighten more, just enough to align the castellations with the cross hole. Install the split pin and bend it over for keeps.
Tap the grease cap home, install the brake shoes and brake drum (including two flat head screws for disc wheel drum brakes).
Adjust brakes, reinstall wheel, and above all, leave the place at least as clean as you found it.
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