At 09:56 PM 8/8/04 -0400, Gordie Bird wrote:
" Over the years I have seen questions wrt removing the front suspension when the body is off; no weight to compress the springs.

Well, ... I have just experienced the same issue (another "might as well") and now have the definitive answer. Hardware store provided 4 feet of 1/2 inch steel rod (not threaded) which I cut in half. Also provided 2 ten inch turnbuckles with big eyes on the end. Get'n the picture? Place one section of rod on top of the spring tower, in front (to the outside) of shock. Lower rod went below the spring pan. Tightened up the turnbuckles to compress the spring, undo all bolts, including shock bolts. Loosen turnbuckles til no tension on spring, remove spring and entire front suspension as a unit. Slick and easy, and @ $12. Now I have a real answer when someone asks the question ;^)

Vice grips will hold the lower rod in place and I discovered that a long punch was needed to line up the holes as the spring was getting compressed. I suspect that a long bolt could replace the upper rod so as to keep the turnbuckles close to the spring tower/shock. It does seem to work well though.

Gordie Bird
Gordie's Garage <mg_garage@comcast.net>

ADDENDUM Oct 31, 2004:
After using the tool some, I think I have improvements on its usage. I now suggest bolting up the swivel pin/a-arm assembly to the cross member and compressing to line up the single bolt in the lower swivel joint. Much easier. I have also found that scraps of wood between the a-arm and the lower steel bar (clamped with vice grips) provides a cushion so the a-arm is not scratched up as well as positioning (and holding) the lower steel bar. Also note the use of the jack stand to support the hub assy while the turnbuckles are turned to compress the spring.

I've also discovered that this tool works just as easily on a B suspension.

Gordie Bird
See FS-203 for more pictures and info to use this tool.