The MGA With An Attitude
Dash REMOVAL Sequence for MGA -- DT-140
While you R&R the dash this is a good opportunity to replace any missing or deteriorated rubber grommets in the firewall. Place a bright drop light in the engine bay, then look under the dash to see if you can spot any errant rays of light passing through the bulkhead. Make note of locations where you need to replace any missing or damaged rubber grommets.
Disconnect battery
Remove steering column. Remove one bolt from top end of steering U-joint (just forward of the firewall), and two bolts from the cradle clamps between dash and firewall, and pull the steering column assembly straight back. Do not remove the steering wheel.
Remove the safety gauge (oil pressure and water temperature). Start by disconnecting the temperature probe from below the thermostat in right side of the cylinder. You may want to drain the radiator down a couple of quarts to have coolant level below level of the temperature sensor. Use a flare nut wrench only to avoid damaging the hollow brass flare nut. Disconnect any P-clips or brackets that may be securing the signal pipe in engine bay and/or behind the dash. Snake the temperature sensor line through the bulkhead and through the dash panel without damaging the fluid pipe. See article DT-101. Dismount the illumination bulb from the gauge bracket. Disconnect the small oil pipe from back of gauge, and wrap the end in a paper towel or small rag to catch any minor drip of oil. Notice there was originally a leather seal washer here (may be long gone). Secure the dangling pipe forward out of harm's way (or disconnect the forward end and remove the pipe). Remove the bracket from back of gauge, one thumb nut, which also disconnects a black grounding wire. Pull the gauge forward out of the dash, and keep pulling as you snake the temperature sensor line through the dash panel without damaging the fluid pipe. Carefully coil the sensor line, tie it up, and store the gauge in a safe place.
Disconnect mechanical drive cables from speedometer and tachometer.
Disconnect starter cable forward end from starter switch.
Disconnect choke cable forward end from carburetor.
Make note where these cable run through the bulkhead. You can pull the starter and choke cables back through the firewall at this time, being careful not to kink the cables.
If there is an original style center mounted radio speaker, disconnect the wires and dismount the box assembly from the under dash braces.
If the car has a radio, disconnect all electrical connections for radio including the antenna. remove any bracing bracket between radio cabinet and car body cowl. Remove radio from dash.
Remove four braces running from bottom edge of dash to heater shelf. If the car has a heater or fresh air system, make note of orientation of the heater control and assembly order of screws and spacers thin and thick. Disconnect two snap connectors from blower switch wires.
Dismount any P-clips or other attachments you may find of cables or harness wires to the car body under dash.
Remove three screws (with lockwashers and large flat washers) from brackets at dash top edge, and drop the dash assembly downward toward the gearbox tunnel.
Sit at center of tunnel with dash assembly face down on your knees. If you have trouble sitting in this position in the Coupe, then place dash assembly face down on the tunnel.
Disconnect all wires from the main wiring harness to dash, 17 or 18 wires. See articles ET-100B and ET-100C. Main harness connections are at the bottom of these illustrations.
Take dash assembly to workbench for disassembly. Disconnect all dash harness wires (about 30) from the dash devices. These wires are at top of illustrations noted above. The dash harness may have a few clips attaching it to top edge of dash. Make note of location of all devices in the dash. Remove all devices from dash.
Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly, with a few extra notes, see next page.
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