At 12:56 PM 8/24/04 -0400, Glenn Johnson wrote:
>"Do you remember talking to me about how you extracted a seal from a new Moss washer pump and used it as a replacement on your pump?"

Yup. I think that was in early 1989, and it's still working.

>"I have an old Tudor washer pump that although new-looking, leaks from the back."

If it leaks from the back, it may only need to be crimped a little tighter. If it leaks from the front, the rubber diaphragm is probably shot and needs to be replaced.

>"I just got a Moss pump and would like to use its seal to go in the Tudor pump."

The current issue (1989 & 2004) replacement pump from Moss Motors appears to be the MGB type with long cylindrical plastic push and shorter stroke (shorter diaphragm with less fluid displacement). The MGB type diaphragm can be transplanted into the original Tudor pump. It will then have a shorter stroke, where the push knob does not return quite as far forward, but works okay otherwise.

>"The back of both pumps look identical. How did you get the back off? Does the seal come right out or is there stuff to disassemble first?"

You have to carefully un-bend the crimped edge of the aluminum shell all the way around so the plastic rear plate can pull out. Ditto for both units. Then put the rubber diaphragm from the B unit into the A unit, and crimp the flange back down tight again. The edge of the diaphragm serves as the seal once it's crimped into place. End result is a slightly shorter stroke, but it still pumps enough to do a nice job.

Notice I have plumbed in three small aquarium check valves. That works like a charm, no run back, instant squirt with the first push even after months of non use, and the foot valve in the reservoir doesn't even have to work. This pump has one inlet port and dual outlets. Some Tudor pumps of the same period may have a single outlet. In that case you need a "T" fitting in the outlet line to split the flow for two squirt jets.

After about 10 years of use the plastic aquarium check valves began to break the hose barbs or come unglued at the cap to body joint. The things are cheap, maybe less than $1 at the local pet supply shop. This is not up to my long term durability standards for MGA parts, but not a big expense if they need to be replaced occasionally. It's like light bulbs burning out; if one fails you should change them all at once, then forget about it for some more years.