| The MGA With An Attitude
Engine REMOVAL Tips, Twin Cam - TC-300E
One look under the bonnet of an MGA Twin Cam, and you will know immediately that removal or installation of the engine is going to be quite a tricky chore. Should you gut the interior to remove floor and tunnel for access to gearbox and/or clutch? Should you pull the engine and gearbox together, or pull the engine first? The original alloy sump has to be removed any time the engine goes in or out. Does the engine have to come out to R&R the timing cover? How about some hints and tips?
On 10/13/2021, Ulrich Armbrust wrote:
"It is a lot easier to properly refit the timing cover with the engine out. Getting a tight seal considering the space limitation with the engine in is a challenge and a leaking seal after all that work an avoidable pain in the ..."
On 11/7/2021, Erik Gryler wrote:
"My next step is actually hoisting the engine out. The workshop manual says to use a "sling" around the engine, but I was thinking of bolting a chain to the engine instead. ... If so, where are good attachment points for the chain"?
On 11/8/2021, Bo Giersing wrote:
"If you take the engine out without the gearbox, it won’t come out without taking the sump off first - also you have to support the gearbox. If you follow the workshop manual, then the bulkhead panel above the gearbox must come out, including steering column etc. Unless you have modified the panel as seen in the attached photo. I used a 12mm ski rope sling with a breaking strength of 600kg - see attached. The engine and gearbox must come out at a very steep angle - once it has come off the engine mounts, then lift the gearbox off its mounting and move the rear end to the left hand floor, this allows the rear end to drop and to get the required steep angle. Putting the engine back in with an assistant took about 20 mins without damaging anything".
On 11/8/2021, Ulrich Armbrust wrote:
"You can make up two spark plugs. Drill out the core and weld in a suitable size bolt to which you can attached the leveler. The modified plugs go into the 1 and 4 plug holes".
On 11/9/2021, Mark Hester wrote:
"Imagine the pain if you strip a spark plug thread. There is a photo of a book or magazine cover with Peter Wood removing an engine, and I think you can see the frame he uses. I assume he uses 4 x head stud nuts. I use a very thick rope once the sump is off".
On 11/8/2021, Peter Todd in Australia wrote:
"I performed the removal of the gearbox using a rather radical method. Because I have installed Electric assist power steering, the removal of the upper removable panel creates a substantial problem, as the removal of the column is now a major operation. I wrestled with the gearbox for 10 minutes until I accepted that it was not going to work. My solution, was to cut out the centre section of the secondary chassis cross member under the bell housing using a reciprocating saw. This allowed the gearbox to be easily withdrawn without damaging the rather fragile upper panel, and leaving my steering undisturbed. I made the cuts parallel with the tunnel mounting rails, and I will make up four matching plates the will be welded to each end of the removed section of cross member, and to the still attached side pieces, which when bolted together will make a fully detachable section".
On 11/9/2021, Allan Semmler in Australia wrote:
"Photos of removal/replacement of my engine using sling method. I did not experience any problems".
On 11/10/2021, Bo Giersing in Africa wrote:
"Taking the engine out and in is quite easy, but ... the prep for removal takes a day and reassembly more the a day, particularly if your car is fitted with the factory oil cooler and heater. Taking the oil sump off in-situ (very difficult for me) allows the engine to be removed, hence those who race their Twin Cams advise using a steel sump. I owned YDH5 928. The left hand chassis engine mounting bracket had been removed and replaced with a fabricated bracket bolted to the chassis. This allowed the engine to be removed easily with the sump attached. A great modification, should have been adopted by the factory".
On 11/15/2021, Frank Netterberg wrote:
"Before removing the sump I suggest the following:
Take note of any holes in the cross-member which do not line up with the set screws and enlarge them. (This happens when the rubber engine mountings get tired)
Take note of how the sump fouls the engine mountings, modify the mounting brackets and/or maybe neatly trim some of the sump side fins to allow the future removal of the engine with the sump in place if necessary.
Apparently on some competition cars one or both brackets were removable.
Such modifications can be made almost unnoticeable.
If the engine is already out, lightly fasten the sump on and try to replace the engine - you will soon see what needs to be modified.
Some other almost unnoticeable mods worth considering are to:
Neatly enlarge the cutouts in the front extension assembly to allow the rack to be dragged further forward
This, together with the discreet modifications to the tunnel described by others, should enable the whole engine with sump, inlet and exhaust manifold and gearbox to be removed all in one piece like any normal car of this period - without first removing the tunnel, seats, floorboards, etc!
The later, removable panels in the wheel arches are a must, of course - the larger the better. I think on Bob Olthoff’s car the whole arches were removable.
Use two independently adjustable slings to adjust the angle of the engine and gearbox on its way out and back in.
Ensure that the car is sufficiently raised so that the gearbox does not foul the floor.
-- Frank Netterberg
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