Jerry Kane in Poway, CA, USA wrote:
"I decided to remove the shock link due to wear and am baffled as to how to remove the bottom ball and socket. Even if I can separate the ball and socket, I’m not sure how I can get the nut holding the ball on off the leaf springs as I don’t see any wrench flats below the ball".

You need to jack up the leaf spring to relieve the load before disconnecting the shock link. Try needle nose vice grips. If that doesn't get a good enough grip, replace the drop links. Usually by the time the shock gives up, the rubber in the link is done. Cut it off with your favorite impliment of destruction, and drop the shock absorber to get at the other end.

This tip comes from our good friend Peter Caldwell at Workd Wide Auto Parts in Madison, Wisconsin:

>> "The trick is to know that [the link arm fitting] IS tapered (look at the replacement shock), and that it must be "squeezed" from the hole rather than bashed. You want to hit the arm of the shock smartly while supporting the other side of the arm on a vise or anvil. This will momentarily oval the hole and "squeeze" the link out. Of course, undo the nut first. I usually leave it partly on to guard against an errant hammer blow".


At right is a picture of the shock installed on the chassis. The rubber is flush on the new link, where the earlier pictures show it bulging out. If it wasn't for the bulging rubber, there would be a space there. No problem with a small difference in the space or the amount of thread beyond the nut, as long as the taper angles match so the pin seats properly in the arm.

The last picture shows the mounting bolt with hex nut and lock washer. For easier wrench access, it is better to install those bolts with head on the inboard side and nut on the outboard side, as shown in the workshop Manual and the Service Parts List. Also the SPL calls for two flat washers on each of those mounting bolts, one under the outboaed lock washer (spreading load on the outboard side of the chassis frame and the frame internal tube spacer), and one under the bolt head (protecting the alloy shock body). I don't know if anyone ever puts those flat washers back on the car with service work, but the bolts should be long enough to include the flat washers.