On 1/24/2025, Rod Stephens wrote:
"I have replaced everything on the front suspension, including wheel bearings etc. Did not remove steering column when I replaced upper and lower felt bushes, but now steering is freeing up a bit, there is about a 1/2" movement moving the steering wheel before either front wheel moves. I am wondering if the damper cap on the rack needs to be tightened down"?

Start by opening the bonnet, and look straight down for the steering column U-joint. Wiggle the steering wheel back and forth while watching the U-joint and both connecting shafts.
-- If the top yoke moves, and the bottom yoke does not move, then you have a worn U-joint spider that needs to be replaced.
-- If the whole U-joint does not move,but the input steering shaft does move, then you have worn or loose splines in the upper yoke to shaft point.
-- If the whole U-joint moves, but the output steering shaft does not move, then you have worn or loose splines in the lower yoke to shaft point. -- To fix loose splines, try tightening the pinch bolt. If that doesn't work, then the proper fix is here: see here:
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/care/csm/mg214.pdf

For the next issue, you need to lift the car to get under the front end for inspection, and you may need a helper.
-- With wheels off the floor, grasp the tire at 3 and 9 o'clock and push it back and forth in the steering direction. Look for any wiggle in the outboard tie rod end ball joint. If there is any wiggle here, the rod end joint needs to be replaced. You might otherwise have a helper wiggle the steering wheel while you are looking for any wiggle in the ball end joints.
-- Also look for any free-play wiggle at the inboard tie rod ball joint. This is hidden inside the rubber seal boot on the end of the moving steering rack. You might grasp the boot to feel the large ball joint inside. If there is any wiggle here when the tire is moving, then the inboard ball joint needs to be adjusted by removing shims. If the joint cannot be disassembled, then the outer housing needs to be cut through for removal and replacement, and properly shimmed for zero clearance during reassembly. There are tech articles on my web site for this repair (as well as in the Workshop Manual and in my recent travel log). Do same checks both sides, for outboard and inboard ball joints.

While you're under there, grasp the tire at 12 and 6-o'clock and shake it with some vigor while looking for any wiggle at the top and bottom trunnions and swivel link to swivel pin joints. A tiny bit of wobble here may be tolerable, but any gross motion causes vagueness in the steering when running in straight line on the road. Fixing that requires replacement of worn parts.